What order should I apply my skincare products?

When starting a new skincare routine it can be a little confusing as to which order to apply them, and this is one of the most asked questions in clinic.

Does it matter?

In short, yes it does matter. It matters because we want the serums that contain active ingredients to be able to penetrate into the skin, so the rule of thumb is that skincare products should be applied from thin- thick. This ensures those skin loving anti-ageing and antioxidant ingredients are absorbed into the skin before the heavier layers are applied, such as moisturiser.

Does it differ from AM to PM?

Yes, your AM skincare routine should focus on protecting your skin from environmental and UV damage whereas your PM routine should prioritise skincare products that ‘work while you sleep’ and repair the skin.

Step 1 AM & PM- Cleanse

In the morning, start by cleansing the skin to remove any oil, sweat and skin cells that have built up overnight. Use a cleanser that suits your skin type, so if you have sensitive skin try a gentle cleanser that will sooth and repair skin barrier function, such as ZO Gentle Cleanser. In the evening we want to be cleansing again to remove the dirt, oil and makeup from the day. I recommend ‘double cleansing’ to remove makeup. This means removing your makeup with a dedicated makeup remover before washing your face, however the ZO Gentle Cleanser does both so if using this then simply wash your face twice.

Step 2 AM or PM- Exfoliate

Now the skin is clean we want use a physical exfoliant such as the ZO Exfoliating Polish to gently slough away the outermost layers of the skin, known as the stratum corneum. These skin cells are not truly dead, but they have completed the keratinocyte maturation cycle and act as a barrier to your active ingredients, preventing them from penetrating into the deeper layers of the skin. Exfoliation only needs to be done once daily, as over exfoliating can actually lead to irritation. We need some of the stratum corneum intact to protects the underlying tissues from infection and dehydration.

Step 3 AM & PM- Tone

Using a chemical toner that suits your skin type will aid the delivery of your serums to the deeper layers of skin by absorbing excess surface oil and exfoliating the top layers of skin. Often perceived as harsh or stripping, people avoid using toners, however the ZO Complexion Renewal Pads not only contain glycolic and salicylic acids to exfoliate dead skin cells and unclog pores, but they are also packed with antioxidants and Urea which replenishes hydration. The choice of toner will depend on your skin type, so if you have red or sensitive skin I may suggest a soothing toner such as the ZO Calming Toner to repair skin barrier function.

Toners can be used AM & PM but you may need to build up to twice daily usage if using an acid toner.

Step 4 AM & PM- Serums/ Actives

Serums are concentrated and nutrient dense which means you want to apply these as close to the skin as possible. I suggest applying them straight after exfoliating and toning so the skin is clean and prepped. Active ingredients target specific skin concerns, so you should choose serums based on what skin concern you want to treat. If you have pigmentation then I would recommend products that contain Vitamin C and other Tyrosinase Inhibitors and antioxidants. My go to products for reducing pigmentation are the ZO Self Activating Vitamin C 10%; ZO Daily Power Defence and the ZO AOX Illuminating serum.

If you suffer with acne then I will recommend oil free serums that reduce inflammation, calms irritation and reduces surface oil and congestion such as the ZO complexion clarifying serum and Complexion Clearing Mask.

The skin does most of its repair work at night. This is why I recommend applying targeted treatments such as retinols and anti-ageing serums at this time. Again your evening serums should be applied straight after cleansing, exfoliating and toning to ensure adequate penetration of products. Some of my favourite serums to apply in the evening include the ZO Brightalive serum and the ZO Retinol Skin Brightener.

Step 5 AM & PM- Moisturiser

Now this is the only step in your skincare routine that you can skip out if you want to. Personally, I don’t always wear moisturiser in the daytime (particularly in summer when there is more humidity in the air) as I feel my skin is hydrated enough with the serums I use followed by SPF. However I do use it at night after retinol use and I do wear it in winter when there is less humidity and central heating is on, which dries out my skin. I also moisturise alot after having any skin treatments such as Microneedling. I love the ZO Hydrating Cream for post-procedure recovery as this is very protective and calming. The ZO range of moisturisers hydrate the skin from deeper down rather than sitting on top, meaning they boost natural hydration, restore skin barrier function and calm irritation.

Step 5 AM- SPF

Protect, protect, protect!! NEVER miss this step. Wearing SPF is the most important part of your skincare routine. UV damage is the leading cause of premature skin ageing. So if you are spending a lot of money on aesthetics treatments and expensive skincare but not protecting your skin, you are literally throwing your money away. The best SPF is the one that you will wear, so find one you like and stick with it. You should be looking for a broad spectrum sunscreen that protects from UVA/ UVB & High Energy Visible light (HEV) and SPF 30 or above. If you suffer with pigmentation or Rosacea then a physical or mineral sunscreen containing Zinc and Titanium oxides, may be more appropriate for you. My favourites from the ZO range are the Sunscreen + Primer SPF 30 and the Sunscreen + Powder broad spectrum SPF 30 for reapplying when wearing makeup.

I appreciate this may seem like a lot and not everyone has time for 7-8 steps in the morning and that is totally fine. At your skin consultation we will discuss what is achievable for you and put together a skincare routine that not only works for your skin, but also fits into your busy lifestyle. Consistency is key and any skincare routine will only garner results if it is being used, so be honest with me about what you are able to commit to.

The last thing to say is that we will be on this journey together and I will regularly check in with you to see how the products are working for you. It is normal to experience some mild irritation when starting to use new skincare, but this shouldn’t last for more than a couple of weeks. Listen to your skin and report anything that doesn’t feel right to me and we can review your routine.